
View of the Wolkberg
Haenertsburg is a quaint little town situated on the edge of the Great Escarpment in the Limpopo Province, between Polokwane and Tzaneen. Originally a gold rush town back in 1887, this tiny village has now become a popular destination for the nature lover and outdoor enthusiast. That is why I want to share my 4-day hiking expedition in the Wolkberg with you:
Day 1
The first day wasn’t very exciting as it consisted mostly of driving from Johannesburg to Haenertsburg – which was around 400 odd km’s. When everyone arrived in town at the Red Plate Restaurant (great food!!), we went to a house were we spent the night. There was a quick briefing and the nine girls had to repack their backpacks to ensure they had everything they needed, and that they didn’t take any unnecessary stuff with. The girls were all aged between 16 and 17 years old. Everyone had a quick dinner and went to bed as we had a very early start the next day.
Day 2
Our alarms went off at 03:00 – way too early if you ask me! We had breakfast, completed some last minute packing and set off into the dark at 04:00. The first few kilometers were on a dirt road up the foot of the mountain. It was a gradual climb but nobody noticed because it was dark and you couldn’t really tell we were hiking uphill. It got lighter as we progressed with the hiking. We made a few quick stops along the way just so that the hikers in the back could rejoin the rest of the group. Eventually we got to the bottom of a steep mountain. We had a rest and had some snacks and then started walking again. The walk got steep, it was getting windy and the temperature was dropping. The group did well, although one of the girls was struggling – she was the tiniest in the group but never complained.
It was getting misty and every time we thought the top was in sight, there was another uphill section waiting. After a while we had to really stick together as the mist was getting thicker and it was easy to lose someone. We walked through an area covered in protease, although it wasn’t in full bloom, eventually we reached a road going past a plantation area. We stopped for a quick snack and continued because it was too cold too sit too long. The dirt road was very steep and after a few hundred meters we went off the road and straight up a very steep section. It was tough but the effort paid off as we reached the top at last. We were 2,100m above sea level. Unfortunately, because of the mist a potentially spectacular view was lost because of the thick white wall of mist. Pity though.

Snack stop at foot of mountain
What goes up, must come down they say. We started descending and it was more difficult than the ascent. It was a steep downhill, quite rocky and the mist made the already technical route even more slippery. The impact on our knees and ankles made the walk uncomfortable. After a few hundred meters the steep slope started flattening out and the walk became easier. We arrived at a clear mountain stream where we had another rest and snack break. We filled our water bottles from the stream and continued on our hike. Our hike turned into a gradual downhill with some flat sections and it leads us onto a road winding through the plantations. We stopped for lunch at a viewpoint, but still all we could see was a white wall of mist.
After lunch we continued through the plantations on the winding road. The road was slippery but we managed well. We walked for a few kilometers and as we reached the bottom of the valley, it all changed into a beautiful lush forest area with waterfalls and small mountain streams. The scenery was spectacular but that didn’t change the fact that we were getting very tired. Eventually the winding road took us back into a plantation. Camp wasn’t too far off but it felt like we were never going to reach it, but before we could lose all hope we arrived at the campsite.
The campsite was just a patch of dirt with no infrastructure, but the fact that it was next to a beautiful river made it worth it. It was as if everyone got a second breath as we started setting up camp. Some of the girls went for a swim in the river. The water was crystal clear but quite cold so I chickened out. I decided to rather sit in a very shallow rock pool which helped relieve all the aches and pains in my legs.
As the sun was slowly setting the campsite turned into a big kitchen as everyone prepared dinner. Preparations were made, and packs were packed for the next day. Stomachs full, tents pitched, bathed in the river, and very tired, we all went to bed as soon as it was dark and fully enjoyed a good night’s rest.
Day 3
Up at 05:30 we all prepare breakfast, finish packing, take down the campsite and head out. The hike ahead was shorter than any of the other days, about 10km compared to an average of 18km per day. I went ahead in the support vehicle because I had to set up ropes so that the girls could start climbing once they arrive. It was a beautiful valley with a big lake, very picturesque.
When we arrived at the climbing spot the area was very overgrown. It was quite a mission to find a path to the crag, which was only about 50m from the road. A little bund-bashing and we managed to get through. Now there was another problem – I had to get to the top of the crag so that I could set up the ropes. The problem was that I didn’t know where to go up and I wasn’t keen on walking through a marsh to get there, so I did a little bit of bouldering up a relatively easy section of rock. It was a little bit dodgy but I managed to get up in one piece. I found the anchor bolts for the route, anchored myself to a few big rocks for safety and set up the ropes. The girls’ timing was perfect as they arrived just as I finished with the setup.
The girls started climbing up the route, it was quite an easy route for me, I guess it was around a grade 12 but what is easy for me isn’t necessarily easy for everyone. This was clear as some of the girls struggled to get past the crux of the route. Most of them did reach the top. When everyone finished climbing Gary, the team leader, went to set up an abseil about 5m left of the route they had just climbed. A little bundu bashing for them to get to the rock face so they could scramble up. The abseil went quick as the girls managed the activity with ease. After completing the abseil everyone kitted their packs and we headed towards camp.

Abseil in Wolkberg
Along the way we saw a few big bush pigs. They were clearly more afraid of us, than us of them, but I don’t suggest taking chances with wild animals. We weren’t heading directly to camp, we were making a lunch stop first. If you don’t know about it, you probably will walk straight past without realizing what you are missing. Along the road there was an overgrown path that lead up to a beautiful waterfall. A perfect spot for lunch and for a quick cool down in the clear mountain pool. Everyone enjoyed themselves and it was a good energizer for the last stretch to camp.
When we all arrived at camp we all pitched tents and got settled in. We were going to stay at this site for two nights which would save us a lot of effort. I felt like I needed a good cleanup myself. With no infrastructure at the site (which was only a patch of grass) I headed to the river for a bath. For reference purposes don’t ever use any soaps or chemicals in a river as it damages the ecosystem – a bath in a wilderness area is basically just a good fun swim. The water was cold at first but very refreshing and it felt great to be clean.
Back at the campsite I started preparing dinner as I wanted to be done by the time the sun is down. After dinner, packing, and a nice chat with the rest of the team we headed off to bed for another good night’s rest.
Day 4
The first few kilometers were pleasant as it was flat, and we stopped on the way at another mountain stream to fill our water supply. We continued our walk and after quite a while got to a steep dirt road. It wasn’t very long so we managed up it with minimal effort. At the top we took a quick rest and enjoyed the spectacular view. We then headed down a steep hill so we had to pay attention as one wrong step would have our bums meeting the dirt easily. The rest of the route was flat taking us through grasslands and forest areas.
The alarm went off at 05:00 and again the routine of having breakfast, finishing off some final packing, and heading off for a good hike. Another 18km lay ahead of us, but it was a return route of 9km each way as we walked out to a beautiful lunch spot and then back to camp.
The fun began when we realized that there were quite a few river crossings ahead. Jumping from rock to rock to try and stay dry only lasted for the first three or four rivers and then I got tired of all the effort and just walked straight through. The cool stream was refreshing and although my shoes and socks were absolutely soaking it was fun. The other girls also got tired of trying to stay dry and followed my lead. We needed to keep steady footing because the rocks were slimy and a slip would take you swimming. A few girls did and some just avoided the plunge.

River crossing
After about 9km we reached our destination. A spectacular waterfall. Actually it was three waterfalls in one as the first fell down into a pool and from the pool again into another pool and then again into another. Three waterfalls in one. The perfect lunch spot. We scrambled up to the top waterfall and while some enjoyed lunch, others enjoyed a cool down in the cold, clear pools. We stayed there for at least two hours as we chilled and appreciated nature.
The route back to camp was the same route we had taken the morning. We walked back an entire hour faster than we did to the waterfall. Probably because we weren’t spending so much time trying to stay dry on the river crossings. We arrived back at camp around 14:00 and chilled the rest of the day, had dinner, quick river bath, prepared for the next day and went to bed.
Day 5
The final day, and a big day at that. Alarms shouting at us again at 05:00. The last early breakfast, getting everything we needed for the day packed and heading off. During the night it drizzled a little bit so the morning was cool. It was very misty and the further we headed up the hill the thicker the mist got. The reason this day was quite strenuous is that it was a constant uphill for 9km – no flat sections just various gradients. It was gonna be tough. A short walk up the hill we stopped to refill our water supply at the river because the next water stop was a long hike away.
After our stop we realized that the hike was getting steeper. Every time we thought there seemed to be a flat section ahead, it was just another bigger hill in disguise. We did make a few stops to catch our breath, but we didn’t want to stand still for too long because the further we continued up the mountain the colder it got. Because of all the mist the dirt road was very slippery so we were cautious of slipping because it was a long way down. Eventually we got past the toughest section and everyone was pleased. That didn’t mean the up hills were finished though.
A quick water stop at a stream and we headed up again. We got to a section where the road was extremely eroded. I had never seen erosion that bad before. It was very slippery, so slippery that we had to walk on all fours to prevent a fall – if that had to happen someone could get badly hurt. Climbing over fallen trees, bashing through bushes and avoiding falling into the erosion holes we all eventually made it past all the dodgy areas, but it was a good laugh though. A quick stop to take a breather and we continued up, up and up.
The mist was so thick I considered trying to eat it! (ok, not really). The mist combined with wind was the same as walking in the rain. Water streamed down my face the same as it would when you climb out of a swimming pool. I’ve been rained on quite a few times before, but I had never been attacked by mist in this way. It started getting really cold, as our clothes, and shoes were soaking. The rain jacket did help a lot though. I kept asking myself why we had to mission up this mountain but then reminded myself that our lunch stop was another spectacular destination.
The mist was so thick that we had to regroup often to ensure nobody got lost. We started walking off-road and we got excited because this meant we were getting close. Through the thick white wall of mist we saw a big fern tree which marked the spot. What we were looking for was a hidden cave and the fern tree was the only beacon that disclosed its location. You would expect a hole on the side of a cliff but this cave was down a hole in the ground – absolutely amazing!

Caving
We climbed into the hole with caution as it was slippery and very wet down there. Geared with our headlamps we went down to explore. The cave entrance was a tunnel where you had to crouch through and then around the first corner was a 2m down climb. The climb took some guts because one wrong foot placement and you would fall into a nice big pool of water. It could be refreshing on a hot day, but today was clearly nowhere near hot. The tunnel took us into a chamber then another tunnel and again into another chamber. It was great doing a bit of cave exploring. There was a small tunnel that could previously be crawled through to get out the other side, but we didn’t have time and because of all the rain that section of the tunnel wasn’t safe.
We went back through the tunnel to get our backpacks and enjoyed lunch in one of the bigger chambers in the cave. It was great to be out of the wind and mist and to enjoy some good food. After a long rest and a bit of socializing we had to head back out into the cold so we could hike back to camp. It was still very misty outside but as we descended down the mountain the mist started to withdraw and we could enjoy the sunlight and a spectacular view.
Back at the camp we started packing up and taking down our tents. We were heading back to town in the balkier. I and Jen were sitting on the back of the balkier while the girls all fit inside. We had to dodge a lot of branches at the back but it was all good fun. When we arrived in Haenertsburg after about a 45 minute drive, everyone sorted their kit as the mothers came to pick up the girls. I must admit that although I enjoyed roughing it for the past few days, I was very happy to enjoy a hot shower!